1 










THE HOLMES CUTTER. 



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THE 




HOLMES CUTTER. 




A PRACTICAL SYSTEM FOR GARMENT CUTTING 

THAT IS BASED ON 

SELFVARYING PRINCIPLES FOR BLOCK PATTERNS. 

AND 

THE /HOST COMPLETE TOR MEASUREMENT. 



It Combines Style, Ease and Elegance, is Elastic and Graceful in all Lines, Contains Harmony in all its 



Attitudes, and is Adapted to Bring Out all of th.e Various Figures to Best Advantage. 






Is Plain in Drawings and Easy to Comprehend and Learn. 



Copyright No. 57677, 18Q4 

By NELSON HOLMES, Chicago. 

All Rio/its Reserved. 






Illustrated by 22 Finely Executed Diagrams, to show how Proportions are obtained for all Sizes. Also Full Instructions for Taking and Drafting alter Measures, for all the 

various Figures and Styles of Gentlemen's Garments. Also including Ladies Cloaks, Reefers and Bicycle Basque. 



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b PREPAGE. 4 




N placing the Holmes Cutter before the Trade, it is with confi- 
dence of approval, as it will fill a want that has been overlooked 
or apparently been allowed to go by guesswork. As I have not 
O seen anything touching some of the vital points, advocated in this 
work, by anyone of the many good composers and "deep thinkers" on the 
subject of Garment Cutting; or at least, although well known by all of them, 
they have nol put it in practical or tangible shape, so it could be easily un- 
derstood, comprehended and applied; it has always been open to discus- 
sion, agitation and arbitration, and it has been left to each individual cut- 
ter's judgment, and only approximated in nearly all cases. This is done 
to such a large extent, that it is a most difficult undertaking to convince 
the Fraternity of Cutters that there is, or can be, any other method than a 
division of some measure to obtain the shoulder-point by. Very few 
have learned, by long experience, that it should be movable backward or 
forward; but seldom, if ever, does anyone apply a self-varying principle, 
according to slant or squareness of shoulders, which should always be done. 
One moment of careful thinking will convince the most skeptical that a 
low slanting shoulder needs a fraction more cloth at neck as well as at scye, 
this cannot be denied. A square, high shoulder, with a thick neck, 
should go back a fraction, if a clean, smooth front at forearm is wanted. 
All this is here plainly laid out. The back balance, indentation, sup- 
pression or small of waist, does not receive the attention it should, as all 
go by estimates; even if the short indentation measure is used, some take 
out half between back and sides, others two-thirds and so on, and some 
use the long balance measure, but none use a self-varying measure, so as 
to allow the cloth to be just right at blade and at waist. All approximate 
it, and by years of practice get it nearly right, whereas, by this system of 
measurements, the new beginners, if measures are taken correctly, can do 
it at once and turn out a good garment with a positive certainty. Old 



customs may be hard to abolish, but as soon as this new method is fairly 
known, understood and comprehended, a large portion of the fraternity 
will use, advocate and appreciate it, and drop the divisions of breast or 
blade, or any other measure by which to obtain shoulderpoint, be it from 
front of scye or from back or front, and use size, slant and squareness of 
shoulder to get the shoulder-point, as by this method it comes automatically in 
the right place-, and the indentation, as here laid out, is sure to be perfect, 
no matter how round or how flat the blades may be, the cutter knows where 
and how much to take out. In my twenty-five years' experience at the 
cutting board I have tried every system that has come to my observations, 
but none has held it's own as well as the one in question. This system 
and the drawings of diagrams herein presented, are designed especially for 
self-instruction, and demonstrates all points, parts and parcels in the min- 
utest details, so that any tailor, who can read and draw, can instruct him- 
self in making block patterns and taking measures, and thereafter produce 
and cut self-varying, good fitting garments. Nothing in any part is left to 
guess-work and no estimate is needed on this or that point which can 
tangle up the cutter. Only apply talent to shape the patterns tastefully as 
fashion dictates and customers desire. In conclusion, I ask you to lay 
prejudice aside long enough to study and try it, and get acquainted with 
the principles thereof, and if you follow the easy and comprehensible in- 
structions, there can be nothing but success. This is not an experiment 
that has been gotten up on theory, but a practical method. You will ac- 
knowledge its value and utility as soon as it is understood, and then you 
will indorse it and most heartily recommend it to all others. 

THE AUTHOR. 



Please write me and state candidly what you think of it as soon as you 
have given this method a good trial. 



GONTBNTS. 



Preface . . . 5 

The Fashion 7 

Coat Cutting by Proportions 8 

Remarks on Cutting of Vests . 8 

Remarks on Pantaloon Cutting 8 

To Measure for Coats 9 

To Measure for Vest 9' 

To Measure for Pantaloon 9 

To Measure for Overcoat 9 

Explanation of Diagram 1 .10 

'Diagram 1 11 

Explanation of Diagram 2 12' 

Diagram 2 ...13 

The Back Balance 14 

The Shoulder Point 15 

Explanation of Diagram 3 16 

Diagram 3 ..17 

Explanation of Diagram 4 18 

Diagram 4 . . . 19 

Explanation of Diagram 5 20 

Diagram 5 21 

Explanation of Diagram 6 22 

Diagram 6 23 

'Remarks on Fat Man's Coat 24 

Remarks on Youth's Coat . . 25 

Explanation of Diagram 7 26 

Diagram 7 27 

Explanation of Diagram 8 28 

Diagram 8 29 1 

Explanation of Diagram 9 ....... ........... SQ 



Diagram 9 31 

Explanation of Diagram 10 32 

Diagram 10 33 

Explanation of Diagrams 11,12 and 13 34 

Diagrams 11, 12 and 13 35 

Explanation of Diagram 14 36 

Diagram 14 37 

Explanation of Diagram 15 38 

Diagram 15 39 

Explanation of Diagram 16 40 

Diagram 16 41 

Remarks on Boy's Sack or Jacket 42 

Remarks on Cutting Ladies' Garments 43 

Explanation of Diagram 17 44 

Diagram 17 45 

Explanation of Diagrams 1 8 and 19 46 

Diagrams 18 and 19 47 

Explanation of Diagrams 20, 2 1 and 22 48 

Diagrams 20, 21 and 22 49 

Notes on Garment Making 50 

Coat Making 50 

Ladies' Cloak and Reefer Making 51 

How to Make Vests 51 

How to Make Pantaloons 51 

Explanation of Proportion Table 52 

Proportion Table 53 

Advice to Young Cutters 54 

Hints to the Craft 55 

Terms of Instruction 56 



6 



THE FASHION. 



Very pretentious as this object is, I do not propose to cope with such 
a subject, as of all things that are both real and at the same time imagin- 
ary, this one is too manifold in extent to in any way do creditable justice 
to it. Fashion is something that expands considerably, and takes in a 
much larger scope than anything that comes into use by adaptation and be- 
comes a mode. To fully express in a few words what it represents can 
seldom be done, as it is in everything and stops at nothing. The primitive 
and uncivilized Nomads have it in flap of skin or tatoo on themselves, or 
in feathers and paint, or something else, some for fancy and others to de- 
note wealth, rank or station, and in civilization go anywhere and it is crop- 
ping out in one way or another. It simply stops at nothing and nowhere. 
Sometimes the most insignificant article is adopted and becomes a mode. 
Quick of adoption of things at times very slow and apparently cautious, 
at other times queer and exotic towa r d anything that looks new or foreign. 
It adopts dark or light or any co or and shade, takes up by turns wide, 
medium or close shapes in this or that garment, takes up short, medium or 
long in lengths, is easy, close, large or baggy, unsightly and odd at times, 
pleasing, attractive and handsome at other times. If we stop to think of 
the conglomeration that is contained in and to a very large extent con- 
trolled by fashion, then we pause and wonder why it is so. As to the first 
foundations for it, we hunt in vain for its origin of commencement; it 
is seemingly implanted by nature in the human race to fill a want of creat- 
iveness or to obtain something new, and is a desire for something else be- 
sides what we have got, always trying to reach for and obtain some 
thing of different constructions. But we, as tailors and cutters, have 
nothing in common with the general run of fashion; only that part that is 
in any way appertaining to tailoring. Here is our field and here we must 
show if we are good and able generals, so as to not make a miss of a dot 
on the "i" or the cross of the "t," as here we have and must of all other 
things observe fashion, if it is a curve angle, point or corner, in the cut 



that is dictated; or braid on flat, wide, narrow or cord, if stitched once, 
double or in multiples, long or wide, short or narrow, and anything from a 
tack or a stitch at the the buttons, all must be observed, and looked after, 
and nothing can be left to go at random or by guess, or be in any way not 
fully up to standard. As the younger class of well-to-do and high wage- 
earning men pay in more than half of the cases for style of cut or fashion 
than they do for quality of goods. This, therefore, above all other things, 
the cutter must remember and study, and if not of a creative genius, must 
at least always follow the leaders of tastily adopted styles, such as are sup- 
posed to have and will get a good run and are advocated and designed by 
good reporters of fashions, and no cutter, even if the cut of garments are 
to all intents and purposes a good fit, should stop and think that nothing 
better is needed, and the customers seem satisfied, then even styles are 
wanted and must be transmitted into the garments and inoculated there- 
with as fashion wants it, and cutters all must follow and execute the slightest 
touch, as she is the most eccentric of queens and demands the strictest at- 
tention and obedience of all the servants that are attending her wants at 
her most royal court, and in conclusion, all those cutters that wish to get 
and hold a good position are positively compelled to cater to the capac- 
iousness of fashion. Let the demand or dictates be ever so odd or arbi- 
trary at times, or seemingly wrong or out of place, because in dress every- 
body wants it and nothing else will take its place or answer. If it is only 
fashionable, it goes, and is then considered useful as well as ornamental. 
This cutters should always observe, or their success will be limited, and 
that no cutter wants as he of all others thinks and feels that he is just as 
good as anyone possibly is or can be, and there fore he should show it by 
his work and let that stand as his recommendation as at the cutting busi- 
ness. Each one must stand for himself, and nobody else will take either 
praise or blame for fine cut of garment or omission thereof, but the cutter 
that has done it. 



Coat Cutting by Proportions. 

Proportion is supposed to be a model or well built figure of medium 
height, and when different in height, we find half height at hip, and 8 to 9 
inches above is natural waist. This can easily be ascertained by subtracting 
? i- of the whole height as allowance from crown of head to socket-bone. 
Take any breast measure and additions by inches, as set forth in diagrams 
1 and 2, and a proportion draft or pattern can be cut thereafter from 33, 
breast up. The smaller sizes \ inch less or i\ added to the Yi from socket- 
bone to bottom of scye on back, as all of the youths and boys are erect* 
but no other differences need be made in drafts or the patterns except as 
style of cut or the fashions as to fronts and lengths. As soon as this has 
been drawn out so often that it is well known by the operator, then commence 
to take and apply measures, and when the measures are taken and applied 
should they vary here and there a fraction one way or the other, that is and 
should always be the case, as some person's arms are, so to say 
planted higher or lower, forward or backward, as the case may be, and this 
will account for any differences that may occur and seem strange, 
both in the measures and on the drafts. But however it comes it will 
always be the case, that the drafts will all appear alike and be of nice 
shape, because it will not matter how the figure stands or what shape he is 
in, the irregular surface that is to be covered brings out the lineal 
features thereof to the very best advantage by having the cloth sit 
smooth, and all is as simple as anything can be as soon as it is well known, 
as one point follows the other, the shoulder point slides back and forward 
as a high, or low stooping, or erect figure is on the program to cut for, this 
or that point will change a fraction, or each and every one, but not at the 
expense of increase or decrease to any other point. They are all left alone 
as it is self-varying and comes out correct. The skeptics that try it will be 
self convinced. The socket-bone is the pivot ; alow shoulder has a longer 
neck, this allows it on the neck ; a square shoulder a thicker neck, this al- 
lows it so with the indentation, a flat blade, the perpendicular line run down 
with the back seam, same at waist as at blade, no matter how much to take 
out between sidebody and fore part. A round, full blade the perpendicular 
line runs out toward the back, may be i\ or 3 inches to take out between 
back and sidebody, the measures show precisely where and how much is 
needed in each and every case, no matter what shape of figure is under 
consideration they are all laid down in the principles of this system of 
measuring and cutting. All that is needed take it up, study it so as to know 



it by heart and more time can then be devoted to points of fashion and 
cultivation of good taste. 

Remarks on Cutting of Vests. 

The vest is a garment that should positively at all times and for alt 
figures fit and sit smooth around neck, shoulder and front. A loose, floppy 
collar at back or front is disgusting to see on a person and annoying, and 
will not be worn by any person that thinks anything of dressing himself. 
As soon as the draft of proportion is well known by an operator he can 
take and apply measures from socket-bone to bottom of back scye, meas- 
ure \\ inch is added on back the length of front from 7 to breast line diag. 
13, should be y& in. less than coat taken the same way, also see if high or low 
shouldered and take off or raise accordingly or else follow proportion, for 
each inch more or less than proportion give or cut out \ inch at front waist 
and make front edges in conformity therewith, cut out a -£- inch at 
waist on back, start with nothing at breast line, balance take out under the 
arm at waist. 

Remarks on Pantaloon Cutting. 

Either of the systems presented here, whether by proportions or after 
measures, will be found to fit well and give ease, and will not twist, as seams 
will hang straight down as intended. The proportion is usually considered 
to be 4 inches less in waist than hip, but for young men it is more, the stride 
is \ of hip and is inclined to be more. This is at variance, as some have 
thin and others have large thighs. But by these systems the cloth around 
waist, hip and thigh is so evenly distributed that it fits well and at the same 
time gives ease and comfort. The system with the balance line toward in- 
seam I introduced twenty-five years ago and have used it in nearly all my 
cutting for all these years and it holds its own. There is nothing in either 
that is especially different from what is in general use with one exception;, 
that is, the use of the thigh measure taken close and \ applied for the stride 
on back or underside in my old system. In the system with the center- 
balance line 1-16 is used of the thigh measure. By applying these divisions 
it gives the right size of stride for a thin or large thigh no matter what the 
other measures of waist or hip may be, and by using it in this way there is 
no complaint of closeness in crutch or appearance of largeness, and the 
pantaloon is easy when sitting and smooth and graceful when a customer 
stands up. 



8 



To Measure for Coats. 

Determine where the collar seam at socket-bone should be, and mark 
place square level horizontally under the arm and mark at front and back 
of both arms place square across back and mark at center and at natural 
and fashionable waist, (care should always be taken so that fashionable 
waist is right, neither long nor short), and length as customer likes or 
fashion demands it, then place long arm of square perpendicular in front 
of arm close but not tight against front arm, mark from arm down to waist, 
place square the same way, back of arm not close, mark from arm level 
down to waist, (in order to get these lines perpendicular use the short end 
of square and place level with a window door or beam in the room), lay 
chalk or square aside and take the tape, place end at socketbone and meas- 
ure down back to bottom of arm level natural and fashionable waist and 
length from center of back to perpendicular line back of arm and to line in 
front of arm, then at small of waist to lines back and front of arm, then 
from socketbone to bottom in front of arm, and from bottom of arm level 
on back over shoulder to bottom of arm level in front of arm, then across 
shoulder for back width to elbow and length of sleeve to wrist and length 
of sleeve under the arm, from front of arm to wrist, then breast, close up 
under arm waist and hip. Each and every one of these measures should be 
taken fair, not loose or slovenly and not tight, skimpy or with stress. Bear 
this always in mind and do not get excited or in any hurry or flurry when 
measuring. 

To Measure for Vest. 

From socketbone to opening or roll desired, which is best to inquire 



what the customer likes and wants, the length in front, the length to smallest 
part of waist above hip, breast and waist measure, and if for a single vest,, 
the measure from socketbone to bottom of arm level on back. 

To Measure for Pantaloor). 

Determine where the hipbone is, place the end of measure \ inch 
above it and measure down to bottom outside length, then place end of 
tape up in crutch as high as customer likes to wear his pantaloons up and 
measure down to instep of heal, then waist and largest part of hip- 
around thigh on undress side close, then knee and bottom. For extra 
large and corpulent men take upper hip at largest part of stomach and also 
from waist band at front to instep of heel at inseam. 

To Measure for Overcoat. 

Measure for an overcoat over the vest, the same as for an under or 
regular coat, or use the coat measures and take length as wanted or as 
fashion demands, and breast, waist and hip measures over such a coat as is 
intended to be worn, if the under coat measure is used, then add 2 inches for 
light weight goods, 2^ for medium weight goods and 3 inches for extra 
heavy weight goods to the breast, waist and hip measures. When a box 
coat is made, the back should be cut shorter 3/q to $/% inches from socket- 
bone to bottom of scye on back, or it will appear too long or too loose 
in the back; in all other respects distribute the added width according to> 
the relative length each measure contains, as shown by Diag. 4. 




9 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 1. 



NOTE — la drafting by divisions, }4 of breast, Hip and waist measures are used, and 
when )4.i Hi /4i or other divisions are stated, it is half the dimensions of these places of the 
body, and they are on any division-square used by cutters. 



This coat is cut by divisions of the breast. The lengths are deter- 
mined by height of figure; the half is at hip, and 8 to 9 inches above is the 
natural waist, and calculations may always be made accordingly. 

Draw line from edge at top of paper and 1)4 inches in at waist. 

From comet to B is yi ; B to C is 2^ inches. 

D is natural and E is fashionable waist; F is length. 

Square out at C by drawn line, and D, E, F by edge of paper. 

From back seam to 2 is )4 and %)4 inches; 3 is half breast; 3 to 4 is 2, 
and 4 to 5 is 1)4 inches. 

6 is y 2 from back seam to 2, and 6 to 7 is \yi inches. 

Square up from 2 and 7. 

Place J at ]4 between comet and C lines; go up 1)4 and down \y& 
inches to K and L. 

Go out y{ inch at K, and shape scye. 

Gorge is y& to 8; go up S/% inch and shape gorge; draw shoulder seam. 

Make back yi at E to G; shape back from L to 9, straight to G and 
skirt to bottom. 

Take out )4 inch of back-seam; taper to nothing from top to waist. 

As the average indentation is 3 inches, take out }4 from 9 to 10 and 
11 to 12 — 1)4 inches in each place. 

Go down to M from L 3/% inch, and shape side body, take out y& inch 
from back at line C, and down to 10 and 15. 

Sweep by L from G to 15. 

A is ^ inch lower than ]/ 2 from comet to line C. 

Take length from back-seam to 2, and Y inch less place on A, and 
let angle of square touch line C, and draw line N on other arm of square. 



From 2 to I is y^ and Z)4 inches. 

Cut out back; place comet at I and line N, and gorge at 8 to touch 
line N; mark round gorge and shoulder of back to scye. 

Go down at P j4 to Y inch, and shape shoulder to H. 

Q is yi above line C; shape scye from P to Q; go forward of line 2, 
and below line C )4 inch; shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 to I; from I to gorge is Y inch less than yz\ shape gorge. 

From H to O is Y and Y inch. 

Draw from 1 to 11 and 12; the side body is Y from 10 to 11. 

Sweep by H from 15 to front; apply waist measure from D to 9, 10 to 
11, 12 to 14. 

Draw line from 14 by 3 to sweep to place point 20. 

Lay straight edge from 20 to Y inch above 15, and draw waist seam 
from 16 forward. 

Shape from 12 to 16; lay straight edge from 15 to Y inch above 16, and 
draw from 15 to 17. 

Shape from 11 to 17; draw cut in forepart and take out Y inch; shape 
up from 15 to 17 Y inch up, and 16 to cut the same. 

Shape waist seam nearly straight j4 inch above 20 to front. 

Add from 14 to front the same as from 3 to 5; make cut at gorge and 
take out J inch. 

Make lapel step 1)4 to 1^ inches; then, shape front to waist. 

Place lower button 4J^ inches above waist seam. 

Draw waist of skirt 1)4 inches below side body waist, and come up to 
and touch forepart 3 to 3)4 inches forward of cut as here placed, and 
round down at front a fraction. 

Cut out side body, and place on skirt waist seam, allowing Y inch full- 
ness on skirt, and draw line 18 parallel or straight with back seam; add 
1)4 to 1)4 inches from 18 to 19, and shape from waist to bottom, then 
shape front and bottom. 



10 




11 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 2. 

Draw line down and square out. 

From comet to B is ^3; B to C is 2 3^ inches. 

A is ^ inch lower than half from comet to C. 

To D is -waist; to F is length; square out at C, D and F. 

C to 2 is y 2 and 3^ inches, to 3 is half breast; 3 to 4 is 2, and 4 to 5 
is \ l /2 inches. 

Take half from C to 2, as 6; 6 to 1 is 1}{ inches. 

Square up at 2 and 7; from comet to C line take half as J; go up 1^ 
inches. 

Put straight edge }4 inch below B to corner C 2; draw for back and 
side top at scye. 

Go out }£ inch at K and L and shape scye. 

Back gorge is yi ; go up S/% inch at 8; shape gorge and shoulder seam. 

Go in S/% or ^ inches at D; taper to nothing at comet and straight 
down. 

Make back yj, from D to 9 straight down; shape from L to 9. 

From 9 to 10 is 1^ to 2 inches; take out y^ inch from L to M ; G 
is hip (estimate as to height of figure) shape side seam from M to 10 G 
and to bottom; take length from back seam to 2, and 3^ inches less place 
on A, and angle of square to touch line C and draw line N. 

From 2 to I is ^ and 3^2 inches; cut out back place comet on I, and 
gorge at 8 on line N. 

Mark around back gorge and shoulder to scye. 

Go down at P J^ or S/% inches, and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape scye from P to Q; go forward of line 2 and below line C yl 
inch; shape scye from M. 

Draw line 4 I; go down from I y± inch less than yj, and shape gorge. 

H to O is }( and y£ inch; take out cut at gorge and make step 1^ 
inches. 

Apply waist measure D to 9, 10 to 14; add 3J^ if coat is to button. 

If cutaway, take off 1 to 1 J inches; shape front and bottom. 

Mark pockets 12 to 14 inches down from scye, and yi forward and 
yi back of line 2; breast and ticket pockets as fashion demands. 

For a double-breasted sack coat add to the fronts \% inches for ordi- 
nary lop, peak the lapels, or as fashion says. Place the button marks 4J^ 
inches back from front edges. 

12 




13 



The BacK Balance. 

The back balance is that part of the coat that is from front of arms 
down to waist and across the back. To make the cloth sit smooth and 
at the same time follow and trace the body at small of waist is considered a 
science, as the indentation is in nearly every individual different, because 
the blades are flat or prominent and very few are alike for the same size 
of breast, and if it is considered what imperfect methods are used to obtain 
the right results then all must praise the cutter that strikes it, although 
many ways are tried to get it. Some place a straight edge on back from 
shoulder to hip and then measure from it to the smallest part at natural 
waist. Some use the long balance from the socketbone to natural waist, 
others take a measure from front of scye to natural waist, and some take 
the actual small waist measure from a perpendicular line in front of arm to 
back seam. Allow me to say all this is only guess work by each of these 
methods. At the very most and best it is only approximated, estimated 
and calculated, because for each and every pattern cut on and by these 
basis nothing is a certainty of being correct. Now, let us see what this 
new method is and how it operates, so we can obtain a new and correct 
back balance. In order to get at what is wanted the square is placed per- 
pendicularly close against the front of arm and a mark is made from arm 
to natural waist, (as is indicated by line 2 on any of the drafts), and same 
kind of perpendicular line back of the arm anywhere on the sidebody. 
When we come to measure the blade the half blade on side body is also 
taken, called off and put on record. The same is done at natural waist, the 
half indentation is here taken. Both measures start at back seam, now 
the difference in these two measures, if it is 3/2 or 2^ inches, it should 
be taken out between back and sidebody. Whatever balance remains of 
the indentation measure should always be taken out between sidebody and 
forepart. The make-up is i}{ inches added to the indentation and to the 
blade always for all sizes. Can you and are you comprehending that in 
and by this new method you have and get a certainty, and no estimates or 
guesses are necessary to obtain a fair and good back balance, and nobody 
should be puzzled about this or that client's flat or prominent blades. As 
by this method they can all be well fitted and get style, ease and elegance 
at the same time, and thus be contented and happy. 



14 



The Shoulder Point. 

I will try to show my readers that it is no wonder that there is or has 
been so much written, so much contention, assertion and speculation 
about and concerning the shoulder point of forepart. As I have found it 
to change a fraction in ninety cases out of every one hundred, whereas, by 
the usual methods in practice it would have been stationary for a certain 
size. But the fraternity has by long custom of practice been used to think 
it right, because it has been advocated by teachers of cutting and fashion 
reporters from the earliest times, and therefore it has always been accepted 
as right that some part of the breast division should place it in the proper 
position. From my earliest remembrance as a cutter J/& was used forward 
of scye. J. B. West put four units of his scale of 2oths, he was the first, to 
my observation, that went forward of scye so much. All others wavered 
between }i and }£, some a fraction more, others a fraction less. But if the 
shoulders are cut extremely wide, it becomes necessary to go forward a 
small part more than when the shoulders are cut narrow, because it gives 
effect to and widens the shoulders, but it makes the coat larger all around, 
because the armpit is then pushed back on the arm and a small part of the 
width thus let loose goes to the back, and if the point is too far to the front 
a crease or sometimes a role is seen in front of arm, and unless the coat is 
cut large in front it will appear to small there and then it is too loose at 
blades because the cloth has gone there; then we have many who use the 
size of neck divisions, then the teachings of Fookes and the standard 
methods at present in use. With this I experimented for years, but at 
last I came to the conclusion of using the socketbone point from the fore- 
part as a pivot to obtain the shoulder point automatically by, and it has 
given satisfaction and been a success way beyond all expectations. And 
by it, if we stop to think, it stands to reason that allow shoulder, or if we say 
a high neck, needs more cloth at neck ; by this method we get it just right 
and without any efforts of thought. So also a square shoulder or short 
neck needs less cloth at neck in this way by the slant and squareness of the 
shoulders, we have the shoulder point right no matter what size of breast 
or blade, it always comes in proportion, and by this method an easy, loose 
coat sits and fits fully as well as a close cut and snug coat does. It is of 
no use to say any more on a subject that has been hacked and chopped 
so much that all think they know it and can get and place it just right. 



15 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 3. 



Prince filbert. 

NOTE — This coat is cut by the following measures taken over the vest : 
Length on back — 8)4, 16, 18% and 40. Blade — half— 6% and n. Indentation- 
3ialf— sH an< i 8. First over, 11%. Second over, 16. Breast, 37. Waist, 32. 



DIRECTIONS TO DRAFT. 



Go in lj4 inches from edge of paper at waist; draw line down from 
•edge at top and square out. 

From comet to C is 8}4, and y inch added. 

To D is 16, to E is 18^ to F is 40 inches. 

•Square out at C by line drawn down. 

And D, E and F by edge of paper. 

From back center to 7 is 63^, with y inch added. 

To 2 is 11, with \y inch added. 

To 3 is half breast, 3 to 4 is 2 inches, 2 to lapel seam $/% inch. 

Square up and down at 2 and 7. 

Half from comet to C line is J, go up \y and down \}i inches to 
X and L. 

Go out y inch at K and shape scye on back. 

Gorge on back is y& at 8, go up 5^ inch and shape gorge, draw 
shoulder seam. 

Make back yk at E to G, shape back from L to G and backskirt to 
'bottom. 

Take out y inch at back center seam, taper to nothing at gorge and 
waist. 

$y and 6y is lj4 inch difference, this take out between back and 
side body at natural waist from 9 to 10. 

Shape side body from M to 10 and 15. 

Sweep by L from G to 15 for length of side seam. 

A is ^ inch lower than half from comet to C. 

Take length from back to 2 on line C and y inch less place on A and 



let angle of square touch line C, then draw line N. 

Sweep by 2 the first and second over, add y inch to each measure. 

Cut out back, place comet on sweep and N line, and C on second 
over sweep, try the measure, if correct, mark around back on gorge and 
shoulder to scye. 

Take out j4 inch at P, and shape shoulder to Ff. 

Shape scye from P to Q. 

Go forward of line 2 and below line C y inch. 

Shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 I, go down from I y inch less than ^3, and shape gorge. 

11 to O is y and y 2 inch. 



Back center to underarm seam is 



and 



inch. 



The width of side body at waist is y, take out \y inches from 11 
to 12, the difference remaining between 8 and 11 of blade and indentation. 

Sweep by H from 15 to front. 

Apply measure of waist from D to 9, 10 to 11, 12 to 14, draw line from 
14 down by 3 to place point 20. 

Lay straight edge from' 20 to y inch above 15, and draw waist of 
forepart at 16; shape under arm-seam. 

Lay straight edge from 15 to y inch above 16 and draw waist seam of 
sidebody from 15 to 17. 

Shape up from 15 to 17 y inch, same from 16 to cut in forepart. 

Take out cut in forepart and shape waist seam 1 inch above 20 to 
lappel seam. 

From 14 to lapel seam is the same as from 3 to lappel seam. 

Draw and shape lapels according to style and fashion, these are 3 
inches at breast line, 2^ at waist and 2^ inches at peak. 

Shape waist seam of skirt so to run parallel with waist seam of side- 
body to 2y to 3 inches in front of cut on forepart, and then follow waist 
seam to front. 

Line 18 is parallel with back seam of sidebody, line 19 is curved out 
iy to iy inches and straight to bottom. 

The skirt in front at bottom is iy inches out. 

The bottom is nearly straight across. 



16 




17 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 4. 



Overcoat. 

NOTE — This Overcoat is cut by the following measures taken over the vest: 
Lengths, 8%, 16 and 44. Blade— half— b% and 11. Indentation — half— 5^ and 8. 

First, Xi%. Second over, 16. Breast, 36. Waist, 32 over vest. Breast, 38. Waist, 34}^ 

over the coat. 



Draw line down and square out. 

Comet to C. is S}4 and y. 

To D is 16 and ^ incn > to F is 44 - 

A is a y inch lower than half from comet to C. 

Square out from C, D and F. 

C to 2 is 11 and 2 inches, to 3 is J^, breast 19 inches, 3 to 4 is 2 inches, 
4 to 5 is 3 inches. 

Take }4 from back to 2 on line C as 6, from 6 to 7 is iy inches. 

Square up from 2 and 7, from comet to line C, take y as J, go up iy 
inches, go up from C y, and place straight edge at 2 C corner and draw 
line for back and top of side seam scye. 

. Go out y inch at K and L and shape scye on back. 

Back gorge is Yd to 8, go up y inch, shape gorge and draw shoulder- 
seam. 

Start at nothing at comet and draw line in y inch to D and straight 
down to F. 

Width of back is x /i from D to 9 straight down, shape from L to 9. 



From 9 to 10 is I y to 2 inches, take out y inch from L to M to G is- 
hip, (estimate as to height of figure), shape sideseam from M to 10 G and 
to bottom. 

y of an inch less than from backseam to 2, place on A, let angle of 
square touch breast line and draw line N. 

Sweep by 2 the first and second over, adding \y 2 inches to each 
measure. 

Cut out back, place comet on sweep and N line and C on second over 
sweep, try the measures from 2 to comet and C, if correct mark round 
gorge and shoulder to scye. 

Take out ^ or y% inch from back to P and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape scye from P to Q, go forward of line 2 and below line C y 
inch, shape scye from M. 

Draw line 4 I, go down from I y inch less than y, and shape gorge. 

H to O is y and y inch. 

Take cut out at gorge and make step 2y inches. 

Apply waist measure from D to 9 and 10 to 14, add 5 inches from 
14 to front edge. 

Shape front and bottom, mark pocket 12 to 14 inches from scye and' 
y-i forward, y back of line 2, mark breast and ticket pocket as taste and 
fashion demands, pla:e tha buttons 3y to Sy 2 inches from edge. 

For a double breasted coat add \y inches to the fronts and peak the 
lapels and then put the buttons 5y to 5y from front edges. 



18 




19 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 5. 



NOTE — In this coat are illustrated three different shoulders, the low, the medium and 
the high, each with the relative positions of neck and shoulderpoint. 

The coat is cut by the following measures taken over the vest: 

Lengths, 10, 16, lSJ^and35. Blade — half— 734 and 14^. Indentation— half— 6% 
and %%. First over, i^}4. Second over, No. I, 19^. No. 2, zoj^. No. 3, 20%. Breast, 
44. Waist, 40. 



Go in \Yi inches at the waist from edge of paper, draw line down from 
edge at top and square out at top. 

From comet to C is 10J^, to D is 16, to E is 18^, to F is 35^. 

Square out at C by line drawn down and D, E and F by edge of paper. 

From backseam to 7 is 8*4, to 2 15^, to 3 is half breast, 3 to 4 is 2 
and 4 to 5 is 1^ inches. 

Square up and down at 2 and 7. 

Half from comet to C line is J, go up \yl and down ~[yi inch to Kand 
L, go out y£ inch at K and shape scye on back. 

Gorge is y& at 8, go up y inch and shape gorge, draw shoulderseam. 

Make back yi at E to G, shape back from L to 9 and G and backskirt 
down to bottom. Take out y£ inch at backseam, taper to nothing at 
gorge and waist. 

The difference between half blade and half indentation measure take 
out from 9 to 10. 

Go down y% inch from L to M and shape sidebody, take out yi inch 
at breast or line C and down to 10 and 15, sweep by L from G to 15. 

A is Y± inch lower than ^ from comet to C. 

Take length from backseam to 2 on line C and ^ inch less place on A, 
and let angle on square touch line C, then draw line N on other arm of 
square. 



Sweep by 2 first over, add y inch to the measure and the same with 
the 3 measures as second over, add ^ inch to each. 

Cut out back, place comet on sweep and line N at I and C on second 
ever sweeps, try the measures, if correct mark round back, gorge and 
shoulder to scye, repeat for the other two sweeps, move back, let comet 
stay at I as pivot. 

Go down yi inch to P and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape scye from P to Q, go forward of line 2 and below line C % inch, 
shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 I, go down from I yl inch less than yi and shape gorge 

H. to O. is Y and y 2 inch. 

From backseam to 1 is ^ and yi inch. 

Width of sidebody at waist is y£, take out 3^ inch from 11 to 12 
balance of indentation. 

Sweep by H from 15 to front, apply waist measure from D to 9, 10 to 
11, 12 to 14, draw line down from 14 by 3 to place point 20. 

Lay straight edge from 20 to y± inch above 15 and draw waist of fore- 
part at 16. 

Lay straight 'edge from 15 to y inch above 16 and draw from 15 to 17. 

Shape seam from 1 to 11 and 17 and from 1 to 12 and 16. 

Draw and shape cut in forepart and shape up from 15 to IV x /% inch 
and from 16 to cut the same, shape waist seam nearly straight from cut y? 
inch from 20. 

Add 2yi inches to front at 14, make lapel step 1^ inches and shape 
front edge to 5 and waistseam. 

Skirt is the same as in diagram 1, only the run of front is straighter 
down. 

1*. S. — The length from backseam to 2 is> % at 6, and 6 to 7 is \% inches. 



20 




21 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 6 



NOTE — In this coat a flat, normal and round blade are illustrated, even if the indenta- 
tions are the same from back to perpendicular line in front of aim. 

The coat is cut by the following measures taken over the vest: 

Lengths, 8J^, 16, 18 and 38. Blade - half— 6% and 1 1. Indentation, 8. No. I — 
half— is 6. No. 2— half— is sH- No. 3 — half— is 41^. First, 11%. Second over, 17^. 
Breast, 36. Waist, 32, 



Square at top and draw line down, go in 1)4 inches at waist. 

Comet to C is 8^, to D is 16, to E is 18^, to F is 38. 

A is % inch lower than Y from comet to C. 

Square out at C by line drawn down and at D, E and F by edge of 
paper. 

From backseam to 7 is l l / 2) to 2 is 12^, devide this and mark 6, 
from 6 to 7 is 1 ^ inches, to 2 is % breast, 3 to 4 is 2 inches. 

Square up and down at 2 and 7, take Y> from comet to C line is J, go 
up \% and down \y% inch to K and L, go out ^ inch at K and shape scye. 

Back gorge is Ye at 8, go up s/% inch and shape gorge, draw shoulder- 
seam. 

Make back }i at E to G, shape back from L to 9 and G and backskirt 
down to bottom. 

Take out }( inch of back centerseam, tapor out to nothing at gorge 
and waist. 

Between half blade and indentation measures in No. 1 is ^ inch, No. 
2 is \y 2 inches, in No. 3 is 2 }( inches difference to take out between 9 
and 10. 

Go down s/% inch from L to M and shape sidebody, take out }& inch 
at breast or C line and to 10 and 15. 

For each of the 3 different blades sweep by L from G to 15. 

Take the measure from backseam to 2 and ^ inch, less place on A, let 
angle of square touch C line and draw N line. 

Sweep by 2 the first and second over and add Y inch to each measure. 

Cut out back, place comet to N line at I, and C on second over sweep, 
then try the measures if correct, mark around gorge and shoulder to scye 
after back. 



Go down }4 inch to P and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape scye from P to Q go forward of line 2 and below line C % inch, 
shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 I, go down from I ^ inch less than y$, and shape gorge. 

H to O is a ^ and *4 inch. 

From backseam to 1 is ^ and y inch, width of sidebody is y±, from 
D to 13 is 8 inches indentation, also No. 1, 2%) No. 2 y Ij/.; No. 3, ^ 
inches to take out between 11 and 12. 

Draw from 11 and 12 to 1 the different lines. 

Sweep by H from 15 to front, apply waist measures from D to 9, 10 to 
11, 12 to 14. 

Draw line down from 14 by 3 to place point 20. 

Lay straight edge from 20 to Y inch above 15, and draw waist of fore 
part at 16, shape from 12 to 16. 

Lay straight edge from 15 to Y inch above 16, and draw from 15 to 
17, shape from 1 1 to 17. 

Draw cut and take out a full }£ inch, shape up from 15 to 17 y% inch 
and from 16 to cut the same. 

Shape waistseam to front nearly straight \y% inch above 20. 

From 14 to front add 1 inch and draw lappel seam from O 4 down 
to waist. 

Lappels are cut narrower for dress coats than Prince Alberts, in this 
case 2% at peak, 2^ at breast and 2yi at waist, and then always extend to 
bottom of fronts. 

For skirt, shape the waistseam the same as waistseam of sidebody runs, 
curve up to touch forepart lfe inches forward of cut, as here placed, and 
curve down a fraction more than for a cutaway coat at front. Devide the 
width by 3, take 2 parts for skirt and 1 part for strap at front and whatever 
length the strap is so wide the skirt should be at bottom ; from line 18 to 
front cut out sidebody and place even at waistseam, draw line 18 parallel 
or straight with back seam line ; 19 is the allowance of spring, which for 
an erect form needs more and for a stooping form needs less ; shape and 
make strap to make up one inch wide curve out ^ to Y% inch from top to 
bottom, shape line 19, and bottom make round or square, as fashion calls 
for. 



22 




23 



I^emarKs on pat Man's Coat. 

When a man attains his majority and still continues to grow, he ex- 
tends more to the front than to any other part of the body, as flesh and 
fat are gaining on him. Therefore, a cutter, to dress and fit garments on 
such a figure, must always bear this in mind and also remember that as cir- 
cumference is larger, more elasticity or stretch is in the cloth (for example: 
the stretch in 9 inches can hardly be noticed, but 49 inches can in most 
cases be stretched 1 or 2 inches), therefore, in cutting for extra sizes, the 
garment, especially in and across the back of the coat, can be cut ^ to 1 
inch smaller without injury, and in 90 cases out of 100 it will improve the 
fitting quality of the coat. But all that class of men want a large scye 
from back to front of arms, but it is a gross error to cut a deep scye for 
such a figure, because, when he sits down and raises his arms to a table or 
desk, or even on to the arms of a chair, and if a deep scye is cut in his 
coat, it will raise up on the back at neck and sometimes to the man's chin, 
and this is annoying and disagreeable, as it chafes the chin and the coat 
gets soiled at back of collar. To avoid this, let the scye be close up under 
the arm and put in a fairly large sleeve. In the front the coat should be 
cut as snug as possible without being too small, as such a figure likes to be 
neat and not bulky in appearance, and the tailor is also expected to bring out 
the shape in the best taste and style. By observing and carrying out what 
these remarks teach, it will aid the cutter and favor him with success. 
Should at any time such customers present themselves, you can, by observ- 
ing these rules, treat them to a stylish, neat and tasty garment. 



24 



F^emarKs on Youth's Coat. 

It is not often that this class of customers come for treatment, there- 
fore it is more annoying than to cut men's sizes. They are usually from 
28 to 35 breast. Whenever ordered, it is by rich and well-to-do people, 
who can well afford it, and are therefore very particular; of all classes they 
are the hardest to please, as the garments should be large, but should not 
show it because the young men are growing. But by no means loose, or the 
mother, aunt or sister will find the most grievous faults. The young people 
are nearly all erect, lank, thin and quivering like a live eel. But this matters 
not, the goods must be made up stylish and tasty, and above all must fit well. 
To accomplish this, cut a proportion width of back across the shoulder, as 
deep a scye as possible, }( to j4 inch more than is needed. Be sure to bal- 
ance it right; follow the shoulders well, so it will fit neatly at neck; make it 
ample, large around, so it buttons very easy, and be particular to have it 
well finished, and you may get credit for a nice fit. By following these in- 
structions, you have done your full duty and may please the customer. 



25 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 7. 



Large Man's Police or Knight Templar's Coat 

NOTE — This coat is cut by the following measures taken over the vest: 
Lengths, 10%, 16X, '8% and 40. Klade— half— S and 13%. Indentation— half— 6% 
andloK- First, 14^. Second over, 20%. Breast, 47}^. W aist, 50. Lower waist, 52%. 



Draw line down from edge at top and 1% inches in at waist. 

From comet to C is 11, to D. is 16^, to E 18^, to F is 40 inches. 

Square out at C by line drawn D E and F by edge of paper. 

A is a Y inch lower than Y from comet to C. 

From backseam on C line place %Y and 15 inches at 2. 

Take Y and place 6, from 6 to 7 is 1% inches. 

To 3 is Y breast, 3 to 4 is 2 inches, 4 to 5 is 1 inch. 

Square up and down at 2 and up at 7. 

Half from comet to C line is J, go up 1}( and down l}i inches. 

Go out Y inch at K and shape scye on back. 

Gorge to 8 is Y>, go up Y inch and draw gorge and shoulderseam. 

Make back ^ at E to G, shape back from L to 9 and G and backskirt 
to bottom. 

Take out Y inch at backseam, taper to nothing at comet and E. 

Take out 1}( inch from 9 to 10 as per line up and down back of arm. 

Take 3/ s inch from L to M, come to back 1% inch above C line, leave 
back }i inch at C line, curve to and run straight to 10 and 15. 

Sweep by L from G to 15. 

Take the measure from backseam to 2, in this case 15 inches, Y inch 
less 14*^ inches, place on A long arm of square ; let angle touch C line 
and draw line N. 



Sweep by 2 first and second over adding Y inch to each measure. 

Cut out back and place comet on N line at I and C on sweep for 
second over, try the measures if correct, mark around gorge and shoulder 
to scye on back. 

Go down Y inch at P, and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape scye from P to Q,go forward of line 2 and below line C Y inch, 
shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 to I Y inch less than Ys. 

Shape gorge, from H to O is Y and Y i ncn - 

From backseam to 1 is Y and T A inch. 

Width of sidebody is Y> from ^ to 13 is 10 /^> and l A added make 
%Y inches to take out from 11 to 12. 

Draw line from 11 and 12 to 1. # 

Sweep by H from 15 to front. 

Apply waist measure from D to 9, 10 to 11, 12 to 14; draw line down 
from 14, by 3, to place point 20. 

Lay straight edge from 20 to Y inch above 15, and draw waist of 
forepart at 16. 

Lay straight edge from 15 to Y inch above 16, and draw from 15 to I7. 

Shape from 11 to 17 and 12 to 16; draw cut in forepart aud take out 
a full Y inch. 

Shape up from 15 to 17 f Ys inch from 16 to cut the same. 

Shape waistseam to front nearly straight 1 inch above 20; add from 
14 to front same as 3 to 5. 

Make step from Ol^ inch and shape front to 5 and waistseam. 

Draw skirt the sama as for a Prince Albert. 

The stay collar should make up lY inches wide. 



26 




27 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 8. 



h|ow to Cut Capes. 

NOTE — The Military Cape is from 36 to 50 inches long. 
The usual Cape is from 28 to 36 inches long. 
The close Shoulder Cape is from 18 to 27 inches long. 



Take any measure of breast over vest and add 3)4 inches, or use coat 
measure and add 3)4 inches, and draw out shoulder and gorge thereafter. 

Place back on double edge cloth even at gorge and 1)4 to 3)4 inches 
in at waist. 

Mark around gorge and shoulder to scye of back, and if a full cape, 
the same as 1. 

If the cape is smaller, the same as 2, with a cut in shoulder. 

If a close cape, the same as 3, cut in two parts. 

In either case, draw a line from back gorge 1 inch above back scye for 
shoulderpoint, out to side on this line the cape is 1 ^ inches longer from 
gorge than at back, and in front the cape is 2)4, inches shorter than in back. 

When the cape is to be fastened on the coat, cut off as per line B, so 
as to not double and be clumsp at lapel and collar crease. 

A band of 1 inch, with buttonholes on cape and buttons on coat, to 
fasten it, is used. 

But the safety hook and eye is better, and then no band is needed, 
and sometimes it is joined in with the collar seam fast. 

The Military cape is made up with a wide, round collar and fastened 
at front with a large hook and eye. But it could be made up with a 
fly or short role and lapel, and appear stylish; in that case 1)4 or 3 inches 
should be added to the front. 

It is a good garment to cover dress suits when nothing should be 
squeezed or crushed, and easy to lay off or put on. 

By taking and applying the modus operandi prescribed for shoulder 
and neck, and adding and deducting lengths above stated, anybody can 
draw and cut a cape for any size and length, and have the cloth so distrib- 
uted that the folds will hang even for a full or smaller cape as desired. 



18 




29 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 9. 



The Coat Skjrts. 

As to regulation of spring in skirts, observe if the hip measure is more 
than 1 inch larger than breast measure, and if the figure is erect. If hip is 
more and figure erect, more spring is needed; in this way the skirt may be 
regulated, so that it will neither split open nor lap over, but hang straight 
as it should do. By observing blade indentation and shoulder measure, 
they show how the figure stands 

Draw the waistseam according to coat waist, either by free hand or 
curved stick; allow ^ to ^ inch of fullness over hip, and place waistseam 
of side body on skirt, and draw line down after backseam of sidebody. 
This is line 18, add from 18 to line 19 1 to 2 inches as required, as shape 
of figure is for Prince Albert or Military or Police. Let run of seam follow 
forepart Yi of its width from front, go out 1 inch more, then straight with 
lapels or front edges at bottom; round the bottom from back to fronts a 
small trifle — care should always be taken not to make it too short in front. 
The cutaway skirt is curved down a small fraction toward the front, and 
the front edge is shaped as the cutaway or fashion demands down to bot- 
tom. 

The skirt for dress coat is cut down Y to Y inch toward the front 
more than the cutaway coat, and the width from lapel to back is divided in 
Yl —Yi are the width of the skirt and Y * s trie strap at the front. The 
bottom of skirt from line 18 is the same width as strap at waist is. Strap 
is cut so as to make up one inch when finished. The side is curved out Y\ 
to 3/fc inches, and made round at top of side and at bottom, or as fashion 
demands. 

To fill out this plate, a few designs of vest collars are placed hereon, 
representing the curve or crease line of a plain collar, 2 of notch collars, 
and 2 collars for double-breasted vests. 



30 




31 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 10. 

NOTE— This Coat is cut by the following measures, and it was' ( an excellent fit: 
Lengths - gX, 16, 31X. Blade — 13% Indentation — 10%. First over — 14}^. Sec- 
ond over— 2iX- Breast— 47. Waist — 51. 



Draw line down and square out. 

From comet to C is 10}i inches; to D is 16 inches; to F is 32 inches. 

Square out from C, D, and F. 

A is }( inch lower than ]/z from comet to C. 

From back seam to 2 is 15. 

Take ^ to 6; from 6 to 1 is 1 % inches. 

Backseam to 3 is ^ Breast 23^ inches, 3 to 4 is 2, and 4 to 5 is \y 2 
inches. 

Square up at 2 and 7. 

y 2 from comet to line C is J, go up 1^ inch to K. 

Go up y% from C, and lay straight edge corner C 2, and draw 
line at L and M; go out y inch at K and L, and shape back scye. 

Gorge is x /d to 8; go up ^ inch and shape gorge; draw shoulderseam. 

Go in at D ^ inch and draw line at nothing from comet, and then 
straight down to F. 

Make back V3 from I) to 9, straight down irom 9 to 10 is 2 inches; 
take out ^ inch between L and M, and shape sideseam to 10 G and bottom. 

Make forepart J^ inch longer than back, so that roundness of sideseam 
can be pressed into straightness. 

There is 15 inches from backseam to 2; take ^ inch less place on A, 
and let angle of square touch line C; then draw line N by other arm of 
square. 

Sweep by 2 the first and second over, adding ^ inch to each measure. 

Cut out back and place comet on line N at I and C at second over 
sweep; try the measures, if correct, mark gorge and shoulder to scye after 
back. 

Go down Yz inch from P and shape shoulder to H. 

Shape Scye from P to Q, go forward of line 2 and below line C % 
inch; shape scye from M down. 

Draw line 4 to I; go down from y^ inch less than yi and shape gorge. 

From II to O is ^ and % inch. 

Apply waist measure from D to 9 and 10 to 14; add 2 inches to the 
frontline; take out cut at gorge, and make step 1^ inches; shape front 
with large rounding to bottom. 

32 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 11. 
Sleeves. 

This part of the garment is more abused than any other, as some are 
cut too flat-headed, others too small for the scye, and the most frequent 
error is to round out too much on underarm toward the elbow seam; in all 
of these cases it works'woefully wrong and is the worst kind of a cloud on 
a garment. The sleeve here adopted hangs from the underarm, and will 
not drag down the shoulder so that the coat will kink or wrinkle in front or 
back of arm, but allows it free and easy as it always should be. 

For size always take the scye; double a piece of paper and square out 
by the crease. 

From comet go in yi to A. 

From A to B is % ; B to C is 1-24. 

From B to E is 2 inches less than yi. 

From B to G is y?. 

G to H and C to F is 1-12. 

Draw line from E to G; sweep by I from G to top. 

Go in one seam or % inch at H, and draw line by E. 

Shape underarm from B to F, and to line to H. 

Shape from B to A as shown up to sweep line. 

Go out at elbow yi to ^ inch more than from comet to G for small 
sizes (in the larger sizes it is not needed). 

Make the cuffs 12^ to 13^ inches. 

Get the lengths at outside and inside seams, if they do not correspond 
then divide the difference, and sweep front and back by H; finish and take 
out \% inch between upper and under sleeve, taper to nothing at both ends. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 13. 

NOTE — This draft is proportion, but the following measures will also be correct: 
Opening, 12%. Length, 25. Hip, 19. Breast, 36. Waist, 32. 
The Divisions are for .block patterns only. 



Draw line down and square out. 

Comet to 8 is yi, and to A is the same, to B is yi; B to C is 4 inches. 

D is ^ inches less than j4 of breast. 

From back to 1 is yi ; 1 to 2 is 4)4 inches always. 

Square up and down at 2 from line D on line 2, go up y, and square 
forward. 

To 6 is yi, 6 to 7 is yi. 

P is 1-12 down; draw line from 7 to P. 

3 is }i from 2, and Q is yi up. 

Shape scye from P to Q and to 2. 

3 to 4 is yi ; square down from 4 ; from 4 to 5 is 1 ^ inches always. 

From line C to E is %, and E to F and FtoGis^. 

Square across from G for lengths of front. 

Draw front yl inch closer to line 4 at waist than it is at 5. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, take out yi or ^ inch at waist and curve 
out to F; yl inch below F is side length, shape bottom to front. 

Go in % inch at D and apply measures, adding 2% inches for seams 
and make up; take out what is more at side of back. 

To use the measures add \yl inch from comet to C, and 1 inch to 
opening and lengths of front and sides, and for a double-breasted add \yi, 
inches to the front and mark buttons 4^ to 4^ inches back from front 
edge. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 12. 
Overcoat Sleeve. 

This sleeve is obtained by the same divisions as in diagram 11, only 
K to L is 1 inch larger on y 2 . 



34 




35 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 14. 



NOTE — These pantaloons are cut by the following measures: Outside, 42; inseam, 32; 
waist, 31K; hip, 36; thigh, 19; K, 19%; Bottom 18%. 



Draw line down, A to B is outside, B to C is inseam. 

From outside line to 1 is y 2 , 1 to 2 is }£, 2 to 3 is 1-24. 

From 3 to outside line take }4 and place E. 

Go in 2 /i of width of forepart at bottom and place H. 

Draw line from H to E up full length of forepart; this is the balance 
line. 

Square out from balance line both ways at A, C, B and D. 

D is 2 inches above *4 of inseam length. 

On either side of balance line at waist is % of waist to 6 and 7. 

Draw line 1 to 6; allow always y?. inch more forward. 

Shape forepart to crutch at 2, take out dress to 3. 

Draw line from bottom to 3. 

Go down 24 inch in front at 6 and draw waist from 6 to 7; shape 
side from 7 to C. 

UNDER SIDE OR BACK PART. 

From line C up to F is yi ; draw line from 2 to F and up. 

Sweep by 2 from 7 up backward, and from 7 out to side by D. 

Apply hip measure from line 1 to G, lay onto F and back to G, add 
1% inch for make-up. 

Apply knee measure from inseam to balance, and from balance line 
back, and make it 103^ (the measure is 19)4, so all that is needed for seams 
is here added on inseam, then take the full width of forepart and apply at 
inseam of underpart and back to outside seam 20*4. 

Bottom is applied yi on either side of balance line. 

From 2 to 5 is 19 on ^, as the thigh measure is 19 inches. 

Then shape waistseam yi inch lower than sweep at back, apply waist 
measure, allow 2yl inches for make-up, if more, cut out a V", so as to al- 
low ease over fleshy part of hip. 

Shape seams, make *4 inch as spring at bottom on either side. 



36 




37 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 15. 



isx. 



NOTE — These Pantaloons are cut by the following measures: 

Outside, 42X; inseam, 32%; waist, 32; hip, 36^; thigh 19X; knee, 19^; bottom, 



Draw line down; from A to B is 42J^ inches. 

B to C is 32^ inches. 

From side line to I is ]/ 2 , I to 2 is }i, 2 to 3 is 1-24. 

Place E in center between side and 3. 

The forepart is 8 inches at bottom; place H in center; draw line from 
H through E to waist — this is balance line. 

Go out % of waist to 6 and 7. 

Draw line from I to 6, and line 4 y 2 inch forward. 

Square out at A, C, B and D. 

D is 2 inches higher than y 2 of inseam length. 

Draw line from 7 y± inch lower than squared line to 6. 

Shape front to 2, take out Dress to 3, shape side to C. 

Draw line from bottom to 3, shape from 2 down to line drawn, and 
shape outside of 3 for dress down. 



UNDER SIDE OR BACK PART. 

8 is 1-16 from I and 2. 

I to Fis y$; F to G is 1-16. 

Draw line from 8 to G up to waist. 

Apply hip measure zy>. to 4 inches above line C. 

From line I to side apply this at G and back to side, add 1% inches. 

The width at knee is 19>^ inches, go y 2 on either side at balance line, 
at bottom 1 inch more is put on the inside— in this case \0% inches; draw 
lines on both sides from knee down, making y 2 inch spring on either side, 
sweep by 8 from 7 up and by D from 7 out. 

From 2 to 5 is 1-16 of thigh measure. 

Shape inseam from 5 to knee and from waist to knee on outside seam, 

Apply waist measure and allow 2^ inches for make-up; if more, cut 
out a V, so as to give ease over largest part of hip. 

Cut the notches out. 

Here also is marked off the underfall to show how to go about and 
make wholefalls, and the waistband is marked on as on wholefall pants, 
they are not cut off, but left on as here represented. 



38 




39 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 16. 

NOTE — These Pantaloons are cut by the following measures: Outside, 43; inseam, 
30; waist, 50; upper hip or stomach, 51X; Hip, 50; thigh, 27; Knee, 22; bottom, 20. In 
iront from waistband to inside instep at heel, 44%. 



Draw line down; A to B is 43 inches; B to C is 30. 

From outside seam to 1 is %, 1 to 2 is }i, 2 to 3 is 1-24. 

Place E at center between 3 and outside seam. 

Make bottom 8 inches, 4 on either stde of H; draw line from H 
through E to waist. 

Knee D is 2 inches above j4 length of inside. 

Square out from A, C, D and B both ways by H-E or balance line. 

Draw line from 3 to bottom. 

Go out % of waist on either side of balance line to 6 and 7. 

Draw line 1 to 6 and line 4 j4 inch forward. 

Shape front from line 4 to 2 and take out dress, ^ inches from 2 
taper down. 

Go up 1^ inches in front at waist and curve over stomach to line 4; 
go up from 7 to front, shape as shown. 

Shape side from 7 to C. 

UNDER SIDE OR BACK PART. 

Go up from line C to F j/3 ; F to G is 1-16; 1 to 8 is 1-16. 

Draw line from 8 through G up to waist. 

2 to 5 is 1-16 of thigh. 

Apply hip measure 3)4 to 4 inches above line C. 

From line 1 to side, this lay on G and measure to side, and add \% 
inches for seams and make-up. 

Then apply measure at knee }i and y 2 on either side of balance line. 

Then apply measure at bottom and make it 11 inches on inside of bal- 
ance line, and balance of width to other side. 

Draw line from knee to bottom and allow }4 inch for spring, this curve 
out to bottom. 

Shape from 5 to knee, make as straight as possible. 

Shape outside seam, curve slightly from waist to hip and to knee. 

Sweep by 8 for back height, and from knee for side height. 

Apply waist measure and allow 2}( inches for make-up, if more take 
out a V so as to make ease at largest part of hip; mark pockets and cut the 
notches. 

40 




41 



I^emarKs oq Boys' SacK or Jacket. 

By this is meant the sizes from 22 to 30 breast, usually larger at waist. 
These tiny diminutive customers are in most cases the cutters' plague. If 
at any time orders are given for such garments, it is by rich people only, 
that want and expect something extra and it is usually very touchy to be 
able to please the mother to something that she will consider stylish and 
natty. The boys are always very erect and nearly everything put on them 
seems too long in the back. But this system cuts a good jacket, by taking 
the measures regularly and cutting it regularly, but before cutting it out 
shape out the scye % inch more in front and y 2 inch deeper, and if pro- 
portions be used, in place of 2^ use 2^ inches to the y$, all other propor- 
tions in the regular way, and the small garments will be right every time. 



42 



I^emarKs on Cutting Ladies' Garments. 

In this branch of cutting I have drawn from all of the many works 
written and published on the subject, so as to be able to hand down some- 
thing of usefulness to the trade that may be of benefit, as this is not an 
every-day work for the cutter, so it may tangle and sometimes annoy him 
to apply his attention to this class when it comes. In this the same method 
for shoulderpoint is applied only, as the bust is more developed in the 
female and the width of goods must be loose and play allowed, the 
shoulders much narrowed, the fit around neck close, therefore the shoulder- 
point is put forward, as per trial anybody can see it should be. The back 
balance or indentation is obtained precisely as in a coat and can not be 
otherwise, (and in cutting ladies' garments I obtained that point.) As they 
are mostly erect and little is to take out between back and sidebody, but a 
large amount under the arms. And by this system is shown how much and 
where to take this out, as to proportions it must be remembered that the 
statute of the female is smaller or shorter from socketbone to bottom of 
scye on back, because there are more developments in front, so the scale 
must be reduced for the back and allowed on the front, and the shoulders 
are squarer as a general rule. As to differences between bust and waist 
only an approximate proportion exists, as lacing has too much influence in 
this, and to some extent artificial padding. All of this must be taken into 
consideration by any cutter that attempts to draft out block patterns, or 
whatever is cut thereby may turn out as entire guess work and of little or 
no value. But the cutter that takes measures should always be able to 
produce a good fit that will be admired and talked, about and create some- 



thing considered fashionable and stylish and flippantly gaudy, if a young; 
or old lady so desire it, as nobody is more chattering over things of this 
kind than the ladies are and they of all others enjoy it the most, they know 
to perfection that fine feathers make beautiful birds, and the cutter that is 
allowed to cater to their want should in no way disturb the gayety they en- 
joy for dress. If the close sleeve is in fashion take the size of largest part 
of arm above elbow always or the sleeve may be too small or too large. 
At present the balloon sleeve is used the most, but some still cut the mutton 
leg sleeve. Let them point out which is desired. The ulsters are cut close 
in back and half close in fronts ; that is, no darts or small ones are taken 
out, and rather full in front skirts, some box and double box plaids in back 
and fairly full in skirts, but little drapery. The reefers are cut to fit in the 
back to waist and quite full of drapery at bottom in back and sides, the 
fronts are straight and large lappels, 6 to 7 inches; the collar is short and of 
good width 3 to 4 inches on turn over. Bicycle Jacket is the same as the 
reefer around shoulders, neck and on back, only close fitting from bust to 
waist. In these remarks, and by following out the instructions given for 
drafting, I try to convey the knowledge obtained by many years of study 
and practice at the cutting of such garments and if followed out accordingly 
nothing but good success will result, as it is much better than anything 
that I have tried, therefore study it, so you know it well and with ease any 
style of the present and any that may in future become fashionable can 
thereby be produced to better advantages than is obtained by any method 
or system known as in and by this, even the most skeptical will and must 
acknowledge true worth and stand convinced that it is the best. 



43 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 17. 



NOTE — This Ulster is cut by the following measures: 

Lengths — SJ^, lb}4, 53. Blade— half— 5, 11. Indentation- half— 4^, d%. First 
over — \\% Second over —16%. Bust — 36. Waist — 24. Hip— 54. 



Draw line down, go in 2 inches at waist. 

Comet to C is 8j4, to D is 16}4, to F is 53J^ inches. 

Square out by line drawn down at comet and C at waist and bottom 
by edge of paper. 

E is as much below as C is above D. 

C to 8 is oi/l inches; C to 2 is 12^ inches. 

Place C at at % from backseam to 2 ; from 6 to 7 is ^ inch. 

Square up and down at 2, up at 7 and down at 8 to waist. 

Gorge to 9 is yi ; go up 5/g, inch and shape gorge. 

Place J. at j4 from comet to line C; K is 1*4 and L 1 inch down; go 
out y( inch at K and shape scye and draw shoulderseam. 

Back is 2 inches at D to 10. Shape sideseam of back nearly straight 
from L to 10. 

Back at E is % to 20 ; shape from 10 to 20, then straight to bottom. 

Go in y^ inch at C; nothing at comet and sway out at D to E. 

As measure calls for y inch to take out at 10 to 11; shape sidebody 
seam ; take out y inch from L to M and mark down to 1 1. 

19 is yi from E; shape from 11 to 19 and curve out to backseam. 

C to 1 is y 2 ; 11 to 12 is yi, and 19 to 22 is yi and 1 inch. 



Draw line from 1 to 12 ; shape from 12 to 22 and down to bottom. 

Take out 4^ inches between side and forepart balance of indentation. 

Draw line from 1 to 13 ; from 20 to 21 is j4 ; shape from 13 to 21, 
and curve out to the back to bottom. 

A is y( inch lower than j4 from comet to C; from backseam to 3 is 
y£ bust; 3 to 4 is 2 inches, 4 to 5 is 1 inch. 

Lay long arm of square on A and corner on 2, and draw line N. 

Sweep I as first over, and also second over by 2, adding ^ inch to 
each measure. 

Cut out back, place comet to line N at I, and C at second oversweep; 
then try the measures if correct; mark gorge and shoulder to scye after 
back. 

Go down y inch to P and shape shoulder of forepart to H. 

Draw line 4 to I; go down % inch less than y§, shape gorge. 

H to O is X and % inch. 

Q is Y% from line C ; shape scye from P to Q, go forward of line 2 
and below line C % inch; shape scye from M to bottom. 

Take out one or two darts, if close fit is desired and bust requires it. 

Then apply waist measure from D to 10, 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16, 
and 17 to 18 is 3 inches. 

Apply Hip measure from E to 20, 19 to 22, 21 to 23, and 23 to 24 is 
4 inches; shape front from O to 5, to 18 to 24, and straight to bottom. 

OO is 3 inches up from squared line at bottom. Round up bottom 
from side to front at OO. 



44 




45 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 18. 



NOTE — This Reefer is cut by the following measures: 

Length, 8J£, 16X, 24. Blade— half— 5, 11. Indentation — half -4, 6%. 
•over, 12. Second over, 17. Bust, 36. Waist, 24 inches. 



First 



Draw line comet to D and square out. 

Comet to C is 8^ and to D is 16^, to E 24 inches. 

From backseam to 8 is 5% and to 2 is 12^, to 3 is half bust— 18 
inches; 3 to 4 is 2 and 4 to 5 is 4 inches. 

Place 6 at half from backseam to 2; 6 to 7 is s/% inch. 

.Square down to waist at 8 and up at 7, and up and down at 2. 

Place J on y from comet to line C, and K 1}4 and L 1 inch from J; 
go out y inch at K and shape scye. 

Gorge to 9 is ]4> ', go up $/% inch and draw shoulderseam. 

Back from D to 10 is 2 inches; shape sideseam of back nearly straight 
from L to 10. 

The back from E to 18 is y to }4, ; shape from 10 to 18. 

Go in y inch at C from nothing at comet, and sway out at D and to E. 

Measure calls for 1 inch to take out from 10 to 11; shape sidebody 
seam; take out y inch from L to M, and mark down to 11. 

17 is 1-16 to y% from back at E; shape from 11 to 17. 

C to 1 is y inch less than y 2 , and 11 to 12 is y inch less than y,, 17 
to I9 is y ; draw from 12 to 1, and shape from 12 to 19. 

From 1 to O is y>\ there is zy inches more indentation to take out; 
\y% take out from 12 to 13, make this side the same width as the other, y 



inch less than y, and from 14 to 15 take out 1J4, inches — this makes it 
right between lines 8 and 2 at waist. 

i.y inches more should always be allowed or added up and down un- 
der arm when two sidebodies are cut, or the garment will be that much too 
small. 

From 19 to 20 is y or more, and 20 to 21 is j/3 and 1 inch, 21 to 22 

is y. 

Draw line from O to 14 and 15, and shape from 13 to 20, from 14 to 
21, and 15 to 22. 

Shape bottom from 17 to 19, from 20 to 21. 

A is y inch lower than y from comet to C. 

Place angle of square at 2 on line C, and let arm touch at A, then 
draw line N. 

Add y inch to first and second over and sweep by 2. 

Cut out back; place comet at I on line N and C on second over sweep, 
then try the measures if correct, mark around gorge and shoulder to scye. 

Go down at P y inch and shape shoulder to II. 

Shape Scye from P to Q, go forward of line 2 and below line C % inch, 
shape scye from M to 1 and to O. 

Draw line 4 to I; from I to B is ^ inch less than y. 

H to B is y inch less than y. 

Apwly waist measure from D to 10, 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16. 

16 to front is 6 inches; take out cut and make lapel &y inches on peak. 

Shape front straight down to 23, round the bottom from 22 to 23. 

Place button marks 5 inches from front edges. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 19. 

NOTE— This Bicycle Basque is cut by the same measures as diagram iS. 



The only difference is that 19 is the length, and darts are taken out so 
to be close fitting, and she buttons are placed 6 inches at top and 3 inches 
at bottom from from front edge. This makes a natty stylish garment for 
bicycle or street wear and can be drawn precisely the same as diagram 18. 



46 




47 



EXPLANATION OF DlflG^M 20. 
Ladies' Baloon Sleeve. 

Double a piece of paper, use edge as line. 

Comet to A is 2)4 inches; A to B is ~/i of scye; C is elbow; D is 
length. 

B to 1 is 2 /i scye and \y± inches. 

D to 4 is 4^ inches, or size desired at wrist. 

C to 3 is 5% inches. 

Square out to 5 yj of scye. 

Apply length from 4 to 1, )4 inch less than forearm measure and shape 
from 5 to 1, and from 1 to 3 and 4, and from 5 to 2 for front part, and 2 to 3, 

Make a small opening or rent at wrist from 1 to lyi inches; if more 
puffs are wanted, add lengths at top, and for each inch on top yi. inch in 
width. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 21. 
Ladies' Close Fitting Sleeve. 

After the size of scye, draw comet to K and square out. 

Comet to A is }£, A to B %, B to C 1-24. 

E is 2 inches less than y$ from B. 

From B to N is J4 and y 2 inch. 

N to O and C to F is 1-12. 

Draw line from E to N ; sweep from N by P top of sleeve. 

Shape from B outside of A to sweep; shape the undersleeve from B to 
F, and up to O. 

Go in lyi to 2 inches at D. 

From D to M apply size arm for width. 

Apply lengths and sweep by O from K to L. 

Make 5 inch or as desired at cuffs. Shape elbow seam from N to M 
and L, and under sleeve from O to M ; draw straight from K to L. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 22. 
Ladies' Mutton Leg Sleeve. 

Take any undersleeve as obtained after size of scye, diagram 21. Re- 
duce \yl inches on forearm seam even down. 

Then draw a line anywhere on a piece of paper large enough for an 
upper sleeve. Place O. 

From O to 3 is 2 /i of scye ; take ^ from 3 to 1 and 3 to 5 ; draw lines 
from O to 2 and 4 is ^ inch less than 2 /z. 

Then shape from 1 to 2 , to 3, to 4 and to 5. 

Then place the undersleeve as prepared, the upper point y& above, and 
forearm seam yi inch above the line 1 to 5, and the elbow seam 1-12 back 
of O. 

Then shape from 1 to about bend at elbow, adding required width 
equal on both sides of undersleeve at elbow and cuffs, and letting front and 
backseams follow down the same as undersleeve, extend lines at cuffs and 
shape from 5 to elbow nearly straight, or if larger sleeve is wanted go back- 
ward to any size. 

Cuffs or other finish may be placed on either sleeve as style, fashion 
or customers may demand. 



48 





1 




L 
















2 ~~ — ^^ 






[3 




DlAG. 20. 


5A 


^^ 










D 


C 




B 


A * 



49 



Notes oq Garmeot Makjng. 

I will say that I am a practical tailor as well as a cutter, as I com- 
menced to learn the trade when only n years and 6 months old, and as 
such have gone through all the various details of making all styles of gar- 
ments, bar none. Therefore, when I speak on journeymen's work it is all 
from experience by practical work and not from any hearsay or guesswork, 
therefore I say, no matter how well a garment may be cut if not 
properly made up it may loose in both character and elegance of style, as 
well as fashion and art intended. 



Coat MaKiQg. 

It would, of course, be too much to describe each and every detail con- 
nected with coat making from the commencement of opening the job to its 
finish, therefore only a few cardinal points will be tendered. The cutter as 
well as the merchant tailor are to a large extent at the mercy of the journey- 
man; therefore, it is an absolute necessity to employ such men to 
work that are always willing to do it right and not take advantage of jour- 
neymen's tricks ; it may pass by the cutter and merchant to the customer 
and he may find out that this or that may be out of the way and then leaves. 
Who gets the blame? The cutter or merchant, not the journeyman. 
Therefore a cutter or merchant can at no time be particular enough about 
who they employ or how the work is made up. By cutting after this system 
all the seams can be sewed together for try ons, only allow shoulders and 
plait in skirt basted; this has a good advantage, for if it fits and sits well 
then it must also when finished and the journeyman saves one or two hours 
time. The shoulder of forepart should be stretched from neck toward scye, 
so as to hollow the shoulder where needed and allow play over shoulder joint 
in front at scye, if fronts are rounding they should be pressed back 
at least some, so as not to appear long or loose. The skirt should always 
have Y^ inch of fullness over largest part of hip, but not back to 
back of sidebody by 1^2 to 2 inches. In preparing the paddings they 
should always conform and be like the outside, and when basted under 
should be even up and down and loose above bottom of scye and a little 



close below the scye to waist ; before putting in the sleeve a thin stay should 
be put 1% or 1^ inches above shoulderseam and down to bottom of scye 
on sidebody, or at least a strong thread, so as not to stretch at this place 
when handling and pressing is done here. The lining should be tried by 
sponging a part of it if it will shrink under a hot iron, as there is nothing 
more provoking than to find the lining short or small as the coat is about 
finished. When putting in the sleeves be sure to have the sleeves hang 
right and not swing either forward or backward, should it happen ask the 
journeyman to kindly change it and it will not happen again. Avery com- 
mon abuse is to sew the backseam too low down at tack, it has the appear- 
ance of the whole back being moved down, as the tack then comes lower 
down than the buttons on either side of it; and any journeyman that brings 
in a job in such a shape deserves the most caustic of reprimands, because 
it is a nuisance and too costly to change, as it requires new backs, the 
collar should be put on even, if too long it allows the coat to swing back ; 
if too short it draws up the forepart and makes it wrinkle. The lapels and 
collar corners should always be even and alike, both sides to a hair's 
breadth, as these small and insignificant things are what bring out style 
and art. Nearly every journeyman has his own idea or way of pressing 
his job and finishing it off. But it is claimed best to press it hard and before 
it has cooled off to use a half damp or hard wrung damp cloth and there 
and then take off the gloss. To go all over a coat in this manner requires 
from 2 to 4 hours, as at last any spot of gloss must be removed. Some of 
the soft light weight goods are hard pressed, all over it is done in this way; 
a thin piece of broadcloth is used and a piece of Holland put over that so 
as to use a hotter iron, as by this it is prevented from sticking and when 
hot it is held straight and smooth on the board until cooled and gone over 
in this manner. The job surely gets a solid press and it retains a slight 
but natural gloss that makes it look new in appearance. If more gloss is 
in one place than another it must begone over until all is alike and natural 
and not shiny, as then the customers suspect that it has been burned and if 
they once see a thing of that kind it is very hard to convince them that it 
is not so. Those who press their job in 15 or 20 minutes only boil it, and 
such things will not do even if the customer leaves the country and will 
never return. We must have more respect for our business and never allow 
anything of the kind to happen. 



50 



Ladies' Cloak^ and Reefer MaKing. 

This class of garments is the same as coats, only no padding and but 
light weight of canvass is used and needed. Attention should be given to 
lapels and collar, the sleeves, if close, have more fullness. In the balloon 
more width should be placed on and toward back part at scye ; the mutton 
leg sleeve is put in about the same way, but in place of felling the sleeve- 
linings the scye should be cut down % to y 2 inch deeper and be bound 
around with a strip the same as the linings. 



How to Ma^e Vests. 

In vest making, pocket should be put in the place marked and welts 
matched to run the same way of the goods. When striped, the stripes should 
be matched, the ends and tacks should run straight with the fronts. The 
shoulder of forepart should be stretched out from neck toward arm hole ; 
the collar should be held close in front to within ij^ to 2 inches from 
shoulder and also close around the neck put a cut in the wiggan close 
toward neck in shoulder fronts, and bottom should be drawn in a little and 
in joining back and forepart it should be even at neck and armhole. In press- 
ing, leave no gloss, and when putting on the buttons let comors at bottom be 
even and one not below the other. 



How to Ma^e Pantaloons. 

No spring need be pressed in forepart, unless it is spring bottoms. In 
joining the seams the notches should always be against one another when 
shaping, ^y pressing care is required to make it in an artistic manner, then 
apply inseam measure, allow % inch for seam in crutch, and down back of 
inseam 1% inches, make nearly straight across }( shorter in front. Light 
weight goods should have a strip of canvass in the turn up, press off well and 
put creases in front and back if it be fashion and is desired by customers. 



51 



EXPLANATION OF PROPORTION TABLE. 



The proportion table is seldom looked at by cutters of experience, as 
they simply look at their square, because it is there. But it may be of 
value to new beginners and to such that habitually take the measures they 
so much need carelessly. Then in special orders where the cutter must 
guess the shape of clients he cuts for, where he only gets the breast and 
waist, the lengths of the coats and sleeves, and most of the time these 
measures are taken loose, close and indifferent, seldom right, all guess 
work, and this with a meagre description, is what the cutter must follow. 
Here the table comes in, as for a normal figure the back scye depth is }i 
and 2^ inches, the blades are y 2 and 3^ inches, the indentation is 3 
inches less than blade for all sizes. Half of this is taken out between back 
andside and half between side and forepart, 1^ inches in each place. 
The strap is x /z and 3^ inches, and 5 inches added to strap give the second 
over or slant of shoulder measure. The stooping figure needs more back 
depth from socketbone to scye and also more blade in each place from % 
to % inch, according to increase or decrease in stoop. But the strap is 
then shortened % to y inch, and 5^ inches added to strap for second 
over, and the indentation is 2 inches between back and side and 1 inch be- 
tween side and forepart. The stoop or low shoulders if on a lank, tall 
figure needs more back depth from socketbone to scye, but blade and in- 
dentation are usually normal, the strap measure should increase a fraction, 
but the second over should decrease from 5 inches to about 4, according 
to how slant the shoulders may be on the figure. And the high shouldered 
and usually erect figure requires less back scye depth by % and ]4 inch, 
and the blades are ]^ and y 2 less than normal, the indentation for such 
figures are j4 to y inches less taken out between back and side, and ^ to 
Y± inch more taken out between side and forepart, the strap may be normal 
or a fraction short and 5^ to 6 inches can be added to strap measure for 
second over. And then we have the flat and the round blades. In a flat 
blade the measure is smaller and less suppression must be taken out be- 
tween back and side and more between side and forepart. Now, kindly 
study and remember these teachings so you have them when you need them, 
and you have thereby increased the value of your service to those you come 
in contact with and to yourself. 



52 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 







Back 


Matural 


First 




Width 


Sleeve 




Breast. 


Waist. 


Scye 


Waist 


Over. 


Blade 


of Back. 


inseam. 


Hip. 


32 


28 


iy A 


15 


n# 


b~/8 


1634 


33)4 


33 


29 


8 


15# 


1134 


uy 


7 


16^ 


34^ 


34 


30 


8% 


1534 


12 


1134 


7>6 


17 


2,0% 


35 


31 


sy 2 


15# 


1 9 1/ 


12 


iA 


lift 


36 


36 


32 


8l/ 4 


16 


12^2 


12^ 


1%& 


11% 


37 


37 


33 


9 


1QI A 


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53 



Advice to Youog Cutters. 

I wish that I could impart to all who acquire this book on cutting, and 
especially to those young and new beginners in the business, such knowledge 
of its contents and such advice of its use that will lead each one to the best 
and highest success attainable in the business. Therefore, I will say, it is 
not enough that the mechanical work of drafting out and copying of the 
diagrams are learned, although if used right they give the very best results, 
such as a good fit, lineal and graceful proportions, that bring out the figure 
of any size in symmetry. Much more is wanted and desired, style, fashion 
and art in its most beautiful imagination should always be inculcated in 
each and every garment produced. It may only be a small fractional part 
in a curve or an angle that may change it from or to the elegance of the 
whole, that enhances or dampens the artistic beauty of a garment or the 
harmony so pleasing to the eye. Cater and adopt nothing but the best. 
Remember that it is the highest attainments in the art of garment cutting, 
for which all first-class tailoring houses pay large salaries to their best 
cutters. But all cannot get such positions and none that allow themselves 
to be nothing but mechanical machines, such as produce the same thing 
year in and year out and take up no new or modern styles. Therefore, if 
nothing new is produced, at least take up and follow the styles brought out 
by leaders of taste and attend all the work with the utmost skill, as at this 



business nothing can be done too well, and even when the best of efforts 
are applied it may sometimes not please, as some persons are so contrary 
and ill tempered that no matter what or how it is done they will not be 
suited. In such cases listen to all their complaints and should they be ever 
so cranky, disagreeable and abusive in expressions at no time allow your- 
self to get and show angriness at anything they say or to argue with them, 
but to humor and pacify them as well as possible and don't forget the more 
and stronger the wind the more unruly the waves. Use none or as little as 
possible of tobacco as well as intoxicants, hold the breath when in front of 
a customer or blow none of it in his face He may stink like a billygoat, 
but he wants none of your stink. Be careful of what you promise, but if you 
make a promise be sure to see that it will always be fulfilled, fcftudy 
etiquette and adopt gracefulness in all your bearings. Always dress tasty 
and neat, but never dudish or foppy. Be accomodating and condescend- 
ing to all, overbearing to none. Be gentlemanly in all deportments, in or 
out of business, as it belongs to the trade. And by observing these pre- 
cepts you loose nothing and gain everything. And should you not obtain 
such a position as your knowledge and accomplishments deserve so remem- 
ber that all cannot be kings. You can have at least the conscientious 
satisfaction of having done your full duty to your employer and to yourself, 
and such men nearly always get good positions and good pay. 



54 




Hints to the Craft. 

The work should not be counted a task to get rid of, but a worthy use 
of time for the good of others, as well as your own. 

Punctuality is a shining virtue. 

An honest worker does not fear the employers appearance. 

Waste is always needless and foolish, do all you can to prevent it. 

Do your very best always, but never believe you cannot do better in 
time. 

When you slip up, own up, make no excuses ; a poor excuse is worse 
than none ; but be sure to do better next time. 

Indifference is worse than ignorance. 

Be ready and willing to advise all who ask, but never offer advice. 

Ask leave to offer to your employer hints to better the business, if 
any come to your mind, they will not come amiss to either of you. 

When a man sells his time, his best endeavor belongs with it for steady 
use. 

Good workers are fairly sure of betterment, unless they get the "big 
head". 

Good behavior is catchy. 

Patience and good temper are capital. 

Avoid levity, it often clouds merit ; self-respect tends to win the re- 
spect of others. 

Barring accidents, your future is in your own hands to make good or 

ill. 

What you do this very day and hereafter will count. 

♦ ♦ ♦ 

Please write me and state candidly what you think of it as soon as you 
have given this method a good trial. 



55 




INSTRUCTIONS. 
Terms: Cash in Advance. 

Regular Course (not tailors) $100.00 

To Practical Tailors 75 . 00 

To Cutters Desiring this System 25 . 00 

To Cutters Desiring Pants or Vests (each) 10.00 

Ladies' Garments 25 . 00 

Special Rates for Private Instructions (this book extra) 10. 00 

Block Patterns in sets of it. 

D. B. Frocks (Prince Albert) 7.00 

Cutaways, 3 or 4 Buttons 7.00 

S. B. Sacks 7 . 00 

Fly Front Overcoats 9.00 

S. B. Vests 4.oo 

Pantaloons from Hip Measures 6.00 

Patterns Cut any Style Over Coat 1.50 

Patterns Cut any Style Coat 1 . 00 

Patterns Cut any Style Pants .75 

Patterns Cut any Style Vest .50 

Sample pattern, any size, sent free by paying postage for same to any 
purchaser of this work. Address, 

Nelson Holmes, 

167 Lubeck St., Chicago. 



56 



